Locked keys in the car is the most common call we take, and the least complicated to solve — provided whoever opens it knows what is behind the door panel.
Modern vehicles have side-impact airbags in the doors, wiring looms running through the frame, and weatherstripping that tears if it is levered carelessly. The damage people end up paying for after a lockout is almost never from the lock. It is from a tool in the wrong place.
First, work out which problem you have
There are two different jobs that both feel like a lockout, and knowing which one you have changes the call.
- You can see the keys inside the vehicle — this is an unlock, and it is the simpler of the two
- The keys are lost, stolen, or you have no idea where they are — you need a replacement key programmed as well as the door opened
- The key is snapped in the door or ignition — extraction first, then we assess whether the key can be reused
- The fob is inside and the car is push-button start — still an unlock, but the vehicle will not start until the fob is back inside the cabin
Tell us which of these it is when you call. If the keys are genuinely gone we will bring key blanks and programming equipment on the same visit, so it is one trip rather than two.
What we open
Cars, vans, SUVs, pickups and most light commercial vehicles, domestic and imported. Work vans and fleet vehicles are routine — a locked van is a stopped job, and we treat it that way.
Why we ask for identification
Registration or title, plus photo identification. It is not a formality and we do not skip it. The whole reason it is safe for a locksmith to open cars at the roadside is that we check the car belongs to the person asking.
Before you try it yourself
The coat hanger method circulating online was written for vehicles built decades ago. On anything current you are reaching past an airbag module and a wiring harness with a piece of sharpened wire. We have been called out to fix that outcome more than once, and the repair costs considerably more than the lockout would have.
Can you unlock my car without damaging it?
Yes. Vehicle entry is done with tools designed for it, worked around the airbag and wiring rather than through them. Damage-free entry is the standard expectation, not an upsell.
My keys are locked in the trunk. Can you help?
Yes. Trunk access is usually reached through the cabin once the vehicle is open, and on many models the rear seats or an internal release give a route through.
Do I need to be with the vehicle?
Yes. We need to verify ownership against identification at the vehicle before opening it, so someone with the paperwork has to be present.
Car key replacement by make
Lost, broken or stolen keys — cut and programmed on site for every make below.
Acura car keys
Audi car keys
Bentley car keys
BMW car keys
Buick car keys
Cadillac car keys
Chevrolet car keys
Chrysler car keys
Dodge car keys
Fiat car keys
Ford car keys
GMC car keys
Honda car keys
Hummer car keys
Hyundai car keys
Isuzu car keys
Maserati car keys
Mercedes-Benz car keys
Mercury car keys
MINI car keys
Mitsubishi car keys
Nissan car keys
Oldsmobile car keys
Plymouth car keys
Pontiac car keys
Porsche car keys
Rolls-Royce car keys
Land Rover car keys
Saab car keys
Saturn car keys
Scion car keys
Subaru car keys
Toyota car keys
Volkswagen car keys
Volvo car keysWhat our customers are saying
4.8 out of 5 from 174 Google reviews
Needed a new smart key for my Lexus. Makey cut and programmed it on-site for half the dealer price. Highly recommend.
My ignition locked up on a Sunday. They came right out, fixed it, and I was back on the road by lunchtime. Excellent service!
We needed all locks changed after a management shift. Makey Locksmith handled it overnight with zero disruption. Professional and thorough.
Locked out? We can be on the way now.
24/7 emergency response across Maryland & Washington, DC — licensed, insured and upfront about pricing.
Call (301) 968-6558